Tag Archive: s.Pz.Abt.502 Leningrad 1943 Smart Kit


In these final pictures of  my “Weathered White Chariot” I applied the Pigments. I used MIG  Gun Metal (P231),MIG Track Brown (P414),Vallejo Burnt Sienna (73106),AIM Weathering Powders Grimy Black (3102),AIM Weathering Powders Medium Earth (3103),Pro Modeller Rust Weathering Powder (PMP Rust), Pro Modeller Sand Weathering Powder(PMPSand) and Tamiya Weathering Master Set C: Orange Rust,Gunmetal,Silver (TA87085). After the application of these pigments I did some more chipping using Testors Model Master Enamel Schwarzgrau ’39-’43 (2094). Afterwards I applied the Testors Silver Enamel  Paint for the chipping and scratching of the tools. And thus was the last step of “Project Pz III @ Leningrad”.

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In this sequence I applied the wash using MIG Productions Dark Wash, MIG Productions Brown Wash,and MIG Productions Standard Rust Effects. I used a variety of brush sizes,and just let it flow naturally.These Products from MIG are very user friendly,with totally awesome effects. No more Winsor and Newton Oils for me. And with the Fluoquil Railroad High Gloss Enamel Clear made it a snap. Thanks MIG. You Can also add your own spill pattern,with a mix of these washes and a little dab of tissue or a dry brush makes it very manageable.

In this photo set it shows the finished application of Testors Model Master Enamels by brush,and the application of the kit’s decals. Obviously I chose the markings of one of  the support tanks   of  s.Pz.Abt. 502  Tiger Battalion near Leningrad in 1943.  After a day or two, I applied a coat of Testors Model Master  High Gloss Clear Enamel and  let dry for two full days.  After two days I was able to handle it without causing any print marks.  There is when I applied Flouquil   Flat Black Enamel to the tires. I thinned it  out enough to apply the paint with O size brush and  let the capillary  action do the work. By doing this method it leaves the running wheels and small upper support wheels nice and clean. I Then applied MIG Productions Dark Wash to the track and some parts of the rubber. This took me about three applications for what I was looking for. Today I  applied a light wash of  MIG Productions Brown Wash on the bottom hull and underneath  as well. Still wet, I sprinkled some #4 from the Rustall  Set, It gives a natural earth and rock look. 

In these photos I had just finished the initial “Detergent Chipping Method”. For a brief summary, two days after I had applied the Testor’s Model Master Schwarzgrau ’39-’43 Enamel Paint. After finally drying enough to handle. My next move was to mask off  as much of the vehicle that I didn’t want overspray on. The color I used was  Citadel Colour Acrylic Skull White, a French brand. What a choice huh? Couldn’t get a hold of any Tamiya X-2 Acyrlic Paint. I now shot the white,with no problems. Then while the paint was drying I cleaned my airbrush up,because my Iwata Revolution  for some reason hates acrylics. At this point I carried my “Baby” to the sink, for the “Bath”. I rinsed the two main parts the turret and the hull under the sink with a gentle rinse. Took them out ,and sprinkled dry laundry detergent over the obvious areas. I then let set for 30 seconds,and then repeated the rinse. In some cases of what you are looking for ,you can repeat the Detergent Step to get a light to heavy chipping look. Also you can use a light brush such as a old toothbrush for stubborn areas.  Bye for now.

After finally resolving the airbrush problem,I continued with the project. I painted the underside,the wheel carriage and tracks with a mixture of Model Master Enamel Black mixed with Tuscan Brown. I then sprayed the interior with Floquil Enamel Reefer White. After that I hand brushed the interior parts. Tomorrow I will spray Floquil High Gloss Clear Enamel in the interior area for a light wash.

All the major construction is done. Next on the agenda is to paint a dark undercoat of  Floquil Railroad Colors (Enamel). Engine Black and Tuscan are my choice on this project.  I do not prime my models with grey,I use a brownish-black  color and then spray the topcoats on. 

Here I assembled the “Winterketten” tracks with ice cleats spaced every three tracks. The tracks were a joy. Nicely done. Also included is a shot of the front upper hull with the PE shields on the front. I decided to go a step further and complete the whole front using Edurard PE  plates and mounting plates. Now to the gun assembly.

Here is a practice fit of the upper front hull,rear deck and two fenders. To my great delight all these fitted very well. It is almost like a “snap fit” kit. Love this newer generation of Dragon Kits.

In these shots are the completed sections of the upper hull and side fenders. The small parts fit very nicely,and with amazing detail. I was very impressed with the quality of the tow cables. I would rate them very high, and in my opinion better than any resin one, and less of a pain.Very little clean up and the welds are perfect. So far so good. 

Just finished installing the lower road wheels,upper support wheels,the drive sprockets,idler wheels,tension assemblies,and the”complete”  rear panel. The panel parts aligned and fitted well,the details are of high quality,and I love the PE screens above the mufflers. So far so good.  

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